Many restaurants claim to serve Philly Cheesesteaks, yet few prepare them as they should. The rules are simple. Begin with a soft roll, not a baguette. The beef is not sliced; it is chopped and heated on a grill. Onions and green peppers are optional, and the preferred cheese is Cheez Whiz, although provolone and American are common substitutes. Now Milwaukee has two places that prepare these the right way: The original is Philly Way (405 S. Second St.); the newcomer is Chubby’s Cheesesteaks (2232 N. Oakland Ave.).

Chubby’s uses a soft roll from Peter Sciortino’s Bakery, located on Brady Street. It works. The basic cheesesteak with fried onions and the Whiz is a gooey mesh—fare fit for a hangover. There are also a few variations, including a chicken cheesesteak, and many optional extras such as jalapeo peppers. Purists will keep it simple, though. And be warned: Seating is limited.